Thursday, March 27, 2008

Tropical Cyclone Pancho

It started with a few drops of rain which was so unusual as we had had been having great (although very humid) weather for the past week in Exmouth. The neighbours had walked past our camp and said "there is bad weather on the way… a TC". Took me a few seconds to register that TC meant a Tropical Cyclone and that immediately got the adrenalin buzzing. The clouds were building up a very dark grey tinge on the horizon and the wind was picking up. We questioned some other neighbours and they said it wasn't heading our way and there was nothing much to worry about, so we didn't.

Until we woke in the early hours of the next morning to rain pelting down on our roof. It was non-stop, wind and rain, constanly beating on the canvas walls and roof of trakkie. We weren't worried at this stage as we have had Trakkie set up in very bad weather back in Alexandra and had no leakages at all, and heavy rain on the trip in Tumby Bay and Kalgoorlie with not a drop inside. So we felt quite smug as we watched our fellow tented campers packing up in the torrential downpour, their tents soaked while we were safe and snug inside.  We had noticed a small pool of water inside the floor, so Mark got out and dug a few trenches around the base to take the water away and this seemed to fix the problem. All around our campsite was huge poolings of water and the track in front of trakkie looked like a fast flowing creek!

At this stage we hopped in the car to go and check what the weather charts were doing (we didn't have internet access at our campsite so we had to drive about 10km down the road to get phone service.) Just outside the caravan park was a low part in the road which now resembled a small lake , and as we drove through it the water came up to the bullbar and made a bow wave in front of the car. Our deepest water crossing to date! As we continued on the road, we found more flooded sections of road than not, and drove very carefully through these and continued to shake our heads in amazement at the amount of water lying around. We reached the lighthouse and logged on to the internet to check the weather. We discovered the TC had a name, it was called "Pancho" and that it was at this stage a Category 1 and was to progress to a Category 2 and up to Category 3 in the next 2 days. It was still far enough out off the coast to not be making headlines but with what we had experieced overnight, we were concerned at how much worse the weather conditions could get if the TC hung around the Exmouth coast and got any closer. We didn't really know what to think at this stage so we thought we'd head back and try and ride it out the best we could.

Upon returning to our campsite, we discovered that water had started leaking down the internal walls where the stitching was and was pooling around the corners of our bed, with our mattress absorbing the water in the corners. The rain was showing no signs of letting up, and thoughts of having a wet bed was the clincher to us deciding to bite the bullet and pack up, in the rain, as our fellow campers had only hours previously. The kids were great, I don't think they fully appreciated the whole situation as Mark and I casually started to pack everything up inside and then braving it to the outside to pack the Prado and the camper up. We were drenched, sopping and poor trakkie was packed up absolutely soaked. We went over to the lady in the office and managed to get a chalet for the night, nice name for a little shack that had a kitchen, 2 bedrooms and an outside bathroom, but to us it was heavenly. We were dry, we had space, we had a TV, terribly static but still so exciting to see a TV, real beds with sheets and doona covers, a real kitchen where I could get hot water instantly, a full stove and a real table that we could all eat at. The scariest thing was using their real crockery, it wasn't melamine like I was used to and I got each bit out of the cupboard piece by piece because I was so scared I'd drop it! The rain pelted down outside and it was so nice to feel safe and warm and out of the rain.

The next morning we didn't know if we'd make it out of Exmouth with all the water on the roads. The lady at the office rang to check road conditions and they were open with caution, so we got out as quick as we could to head inland, to sun and dry weather, so we can open trakkie up and assess the damage inside, to pull nearly everything out of the trailer to dry (we had water running out when we opened the back door).  Not looking forward to the smell!!



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Turtles, turtles and more turtles...

Talk about dreams coming true!

I (Sharyn) have loved turtles ever since I was a little girl. I had a collection that ranged from pencil –sharpener turtles, to soft turtles to porcelain turtles, I have always had a fascination for the cute little guys with shells. Here in Exmouth/ Ningaloo Reef it is a turtle paradise in the right season. We thought the season had passed with the nesting season happening from around November to February and the baby turtles hatching approx. 6 weeks after.  When we booked into the Yardi Creek Homestead Caravan park the lady told us that they had seen some baby turtles only recently on the beach so we all got a bit excited. Especially me!

Just before sunset we set off with our head torches onto the beach. We had no idea really what we were looking for, where they would be, how big they were or if they would be easy to be spot. So we just wandered around, astounded at the number of sandy craters  where the mum turtles had nested previously. It looked like the craters on the moon, as far as the eye could see up the beach. We searched high and low with no success, but saw lots of baby turtle prints and even some big mummy turtle prints that looked like big tyres marks, so we knew there had been action previously. We gave up and hoped maybe next time we'd be lucky.

The next day we went for a snorkel at the renowned Turquoise Bay. We went to the Drift Snorkel where you hop in to the right of the reef and float down on the current (although  swimming against the current proved quite tough!) This is one of Ningaloo's most popular snorkel sites, and we now know why. Apparently  there used to be an ad on TV where Elle McPherson strolled along a beach promoting (I think) Qantas Airways, and that was filmed here at Turquoise Bay. The water is amazingly clear, it sparkles like millions of diamonds and is the most magnificent turquoise colour, not suprisingly hey! And the reef is only about 50m from the shore so access is super easy and it was absolutely stunning. There was a huge array of fish of every size, color and shape. Mark and I got to swim in a school of fish called 'Black Spotted Dart', there was about 100 of them all around us, above, to the left , right and below. We felt like we were a part of their family, they didn't mind us being there at all. That is one thing about Ningaloo, the fish don't batter an eyelid about you being there, you feel like you a part of a giant aquarium. While we were out on the reef, the kids who were a bit puffed out were playing in the shallows. Even in water  1m from shore, the kids had these lovely little white fish  playing around their fingers as they dug the sand up. They had the best time. And Marks highlight was seeing a Black Tip Reef Shark. He caught a glimpse of it and quickly swam over to drag me back to the spot. Initially I thought he wanted to show me a big school of fish feeding on the coral but Mark kept swimming around looking for something else. Then he pointed to something and I saw it, it made my hair stand on end and I felt relief as I watched it swim away, awesome to see but bit too close for my comfort!

The next night we tried the turtle beach again. This time it was after sunset and already dark and we were in luck. There were crabs on the sand near the shore everywhere and we saw them even up in the turtle nesting craters so we had the feeling they knew something was up. The next thing Emshia cries out "that crab has got a baby turtle!" Here was this decent size crab with his big pinchers around this little shell. We chased after it , it dropped the turtle and scuttled off. Our first view of a baby turtle! Its whole body would fit in the palm of a female adult hand, its front flippers so long and back legs so short. This little guy we called 'Lucky' because if we hadn't come along it was crab food for sure. We tried to guide him down the sand towards the water. His left flipper had been damaged by the crab so was slower than his other and kept getting stuck in the sand, but eventually he made it to the water and the waves washed him into the ocean, ready to start his challenging life ahead. Only 1 in a 1000 baby turtles actually make it to maturity…not great odds but 'Lucky' was now at least in with a fighting chance. After we saw Lucky, we came across 'Speedy' (she was twice as quick as Lucky and hadn't been injured by a nasty crab), 'Sandy' (covered in sand), 'Super Sandy' (really covered in sand), 'Hyper Sandy' ( I think you can guess why!), 'Getaway' (he was super quick getting to the ocean), 'Boxer' (Mark guided him to the ocean), 'Flippy' ( she had big front flippers), 'Slippery', 'Slimey', 'Squirt' (after Finding Nemo) and  'Tough' (found him turned over on his back by a crab ready to eat him). Every time we spotted a baby the adrenalin would be pumping, and we felt like real 'Wildlife Warriors' protecting these innocent little turtles and ensuring their safe entry into the water. On our way back up the beach , I suddenly spotted a mum turtle coming onto the beach and got so excited trying to call the others, I think I scared her away into the water!  Then Mark spotted another mum only metres away from us at the shoreline that we hadn't even noticed. We had been too busy scouring the sand for babies we hadn't dreamed the mums would still be coming in to nest. (We thought they had finished last month ). We sat still and tried to keep quiet but she saw us too  and headed back into the ocean. Apparently the mums are very sensitive when coming in to lay and very easily scared. But all the same it was a huge buzz seeing the big mums as well as the babies! So we all headed back to camp on a huge high and spent the rest of the night talking turtle!!!

Next day we had our second snorkel at a place called 'Oyster Stacks'. This site was full of fish only metres from the shore. And unlike Turquoise Bay, there was no current so you could snorkel as you liked without much effort. It was here we saw a magnificent green turtle resting down in the rocks on the ocean floor. Mark spotted him first and swam down to where he was and the turtle started to swim. Oh it was like magic watching this turtle swim only centimetres away from us. He came so close and we could've all swam for miles watching his big flippers move gracefully in the water. To be swimming with a turtle was only ever a distant dream and here we were living it! Such an amazing experience.

Our next snorkel was at Lakeside. This was a bit of a walk around the beach to the reef but definitely worth it. This snorkelling site was a lot deeper than the others we'd been at, which meant we saw a wider variety of fish. We saw false clownfish (just like Nemo), Fish like Gill (yellow and black stripes) from Nemo too,  a blue spotted stingray, a big school of Long Toms (skinny silver fish with a long nose), a white-tipped reef shark and a Leopard Shark. And many, many other beautiful  big and little tropical fish. This site was Mark's overall favourite for the variety of different fish. The kids and I loved Oyster Stacks due to our magic swim with the turtle.



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Coral Bay

After our interesting experience at Gnaraloo we arrived late in Coral Bay and set up in the dark. Luckily we have the set-up down pat and we quickly settled for the night. I made Sharyn one of my nice coffees, brewed on the stove top with real coffee(not  instant) and topped with heated frothed milk and sprinkled chocolate. Then I lit the big citronella bucket and we sat around this and drank our coffee; how romantic am I?

The next day we walked on the beautiful beach, with crystal clear water and big queen snappers following us!  They supposedly feed them daily but this didn't happen while we were there. We did see a guy walk over with some bait and feed them so his partner could take some photos, a bit like the dolphin feeding at Monkey Mia on a tiny scale. We returned afterwards with our snorkelling gear and the kids had their first real snorkel in the ocean. Despite being near  the end of Ningaloo Reef, we thought it was great. It dropped off quickly and straight away you were swimming above heaps of tropical fish. There was a gentle drift that carried you towards the sheltered bay so we got out and went back to the start and did it again. Once again people had told us not to worry about coming to Coral Bay because there was nothing there and the reef was better further up but we found it to be a great spot for the kids to have their first snorkel and it was all walking distance from the caravan park. Luckily we did our groceries in Carnarvon as the prices here were very expensive.     



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Grumpy Old Men...

After leaving the underrated Monkey Mia we headed to Carnarvon.  Pulled into a caravan park and I get out to look for a shady spot as the weather was very warm. Out comes one of the permanent residents, reeking of booze, asking if I needed help. I told him I was just looking for a shady spot and to work this one out he proceeds to ask me a million and one questions about my car, trailer, length of stay, wife and kids, places previoulsy visited etc. etc! After half an hour rambling on, telling some stories about his youth and how he use to chase the girls, I got away from him and he still hadn't recommended a site. Meanwhile, Sharyn's walking around trying to find me and just as we meet, another permanent comes over. He calls out something and I tell him we're just looking for shade and cupping his hand to his ear to indicate he can't hear, he motions for us to come over. I murmur to Sharyn, "Not again!".  Another million questions but this guy was quite nice but he bagged out the other guy and it was like the movie 'Grumpy Old Men'.  One was in charge of cleaning the toilets and the other watering and mowing the lawns. Funny stuff.  We ended up here for a few days sorting some things out before moving on.

We were heading for Coral Bay but detoured to Quobba to view the blowholes. The big one was quite spectacular and you could hear the roar of the water rushing in under the rocks before blasting its way up through the hole. Continuing North on the same track, we arrived at Gnaraloo Homestead, which had been recommended by others we had met. This was a fair way off our intended route as we had to follow the same (rough & sandy) road back out before getting on the highway to Coral Bay.

A sign at the gate said to keep to the tracks and lower your tyres to 20psi. Well the tracks were hard gravel so I didn't see the point in dropping the tyres down, so in we went and just idled around checking the place out. There were heaps of small units half completed, a bit like a little ghost township. Up on the verandah of the homestead I noticed a woman holding a broom looking quite angry. Thinking it couldn't be us I ignored her and continued driving about and then noticed she had dropped the broom and was now standing there arms across her chest looking towards us with a 'Not Happy Jan' stance. Thought I had better drive up to see what was going on and she comes strutting down with some lovely expletives on her t-shirt telling those who read it to 'harden up' a little. Nice. First she tells me that she thought I was going to drive over her pipes; told her I didn't and I was just having a browse. Then she said it would be a great idea to do that on foot so I wasn't pulling 'that great big thing around'…she meant our little camper trailer. I told her I was sticking to the tracks as advised by the sign at the gate (and if were suppose to walk it should have said so on the gate). I must  mention she had a very broad English accent and she ended every sentence with 'hey?'. So by now she didn't really have any comeback as we had done no wrong, but to help ease the tension I enquired about the place itself and what accomodation was available. I followed her inside the homestead to get a pamphlet and basically the only accomodation is in the homestead (imagine trying to explain the words on her t-shirt to the kids if we stayed) or at a campground a long way back on the track. Apparently some Japanese  investors were putting up the money to build the small outbuildings for tourists and pulled the plug before they were finished.  Anyway, I managed to get away unscathed and driving out we were amazed that this girl was the public face for this tourist place, complete with attitude and a t-shirt with the lovely f word blazed across it. We did later check out their website and it looked great, but it depicts the whole area as a finished and real happening place. I hope not too many people read that and then get the welcome we received, followed by the realisation that the place in only half complete. Looking at the distance and time we had wasted getting there, we put it down as 'an experience' and headed back out for Coral Bay.



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Thursday, March 13, 2008

Magical Monkey Mia...so much more than just dolphins!

We honestly weren't planning on stopping at Monkey Mia (pronounced my-a). On reflection we would call it the "tall poppy syndrome", the good old Australian way of bringing down Australia's shining stars… we had numerous people tell us how over-rated the place was, not worth going to, how the dolphins are put on 'show' and basically exploited. And we wouldn't have gone if it wasn't for the fact that we didn't see the dolphins come in at Bunbury at the 'Dolphin Interpretive Centre' and how disappointing that was.

What you don't hear is that seeing the dolphins is just a small part of the experience. Monkey Mia is in Shark Bay, which is one of only a handful of special regions in the world to meet the criteria for World Heritage Listing. Shark Bay is home to an extensive range of rare marine life including dugong, manta rays, turtles, whales and dolphins. The bay area is flanked by a dramatic and beautiful array of coastline, red sea cliffs, white sandy beaches and turquoise waters. The bay region also has the largest number and area of seagrass species in the world.

Our first stop was Hamelin Pool and Marine and Nature reserve. Here the living fossils called "stromatolites" dot the shore of the pool in big rocky lumps, they are cartoonised as a creature called "stumpy". The kids loved seeing all the "stumpy's" everywhere, it really brought it to their level. Stromatolites are colonies of micro-organisms that resemble the oldest and simpliest forms of life on earth around 3.5 billion years ago. These ones though are just babies at only 3000 years old! It was fascinating and extremely hot here (around 39 deg!!)

Next stop was Denham. We were planning on staying here because we had been told by numerous people that you dont stay at Monkey Mia (although was never told the reason why?) but something just made us call the Monkey Mia resort and we were very pleasantly suprised that there rates were actually cheaper for a powered site than anywhere we had been on our whole trip to date! So we couldn't resist.  And we are so glad we did. It was the most awesome place to stay. After we had set up we had a wander on the beach and onto the jetty. The next thing we looked down and saw a green turtle swimming below us. I was ecstatic. I have loved turtles even since I was little (and had a pretty extensive turtle collection!) so to see one swimming in the wild was amazing. (see the photo on our pictures). Then we saw two dolphins in the shallows, our first dolphins. Then another turtle, a crab and a big pink snapper. For our first night we were blown away and thought if we weren't staying here we would have missed it all.

The next morning we made it to the beach by 7.30 and there the dolphins were waiting in the shallows. Wild dolphins have been visiting the beach since the early 1960's and there are actually only five female dolphins who get fed three times a day at random times when they come to the shore. These are the offspring of the previous dolphins who have been fed, so they have been coming from a young age with their mothers. The dolphin feeding is very carefully controlled, they run through strict rules about your interaction with the dolphins but it is done in an easy going way and we got to feel a part a the whole experience. When it comes to feeding time they get everyone to stand out of the water and have three people spread along the crowds who have the buckets with the fish and pick out around 5 people each to come out into the water and feed the dolphin in front of them. And we were stoked when they picked Emshia and Rory to feed "Surprise" the dolphin in front of us! It was magical. As it worked out the next feed happened straight after the first and Mark was then chosen to feed a dolphin too! So overall it was a fabulous experience for us all. One we would highly recommend to anyone.

The previous night we had seen a brochure for a cruise on a catamaran to see the wildlife in the ocean. It looked totally amazing and thought we would have no chance on getting 4 spots, that they would be booked out weeks ahead. Thought we would go in and see and next thing found ourselves on a 2 and a half hour "Wildlife Experience" cruise and booked in for an "Extreme Sundown Sail" later that night! We were just pinching ourselves with disbelief. The boat was amazing, we were all just wandering over it at our leisure, and we got to see two dugongs, about 6 dolphins, a sea snake and the amazing big loggerhead turtles. It was awesome. 

That afternoon, we had a snorkel in the ocean and saw a large stingray and Mark got within reaching distance of a friendly dolphin, couldn't believe our eyes!

The next day we drove up to Cape Peron in the Francois Peron National Park, right next to Monkey Mia. We were planning on camping out in the Park but the heat was so intense we changed our mind pretty quickly. It was a 4WD only track and we had some fun in the deep red sand but made it through safely. Our highlight in the NP was a viewing platform called 'Skipjack Point'. From here we looked down into the shallows and saw sharks, turtles, rays, it was like being in a glass bottomed boat. We felt so priviledged to witness this amazing array of marine life.

The other highlight of our stay at Monkey Mia was the two nightly talks we attended (they are on every night of the week) in the conference room. The Shark Bay area is a haven for scientists and researchers who are studying the marine life in the Bay, listening to dolphins, tagging turtles, studying tiger sharks and tracking dugongs to name but a few. Each night they hold a talk, and we were lucky enough to listen about the 'Marine Life in Shark Bay' and the 'Turtles in Shark Bay'. Our presenter was from Canada and is doing his PhD on the Turtles in Shark Bay and it was like having our own National Geographic expert!

The pity about these talks is that hardly any people went. Most tourists who come to Monkey Mia come the night before to see the dolphins in the morning and then they are off again that day. They are so missing out on the wide array of amazing marine life Shark Bay has to offer. We have to say being at Monkey Mia has been the highlight of our trip to date and we would encourage anyone to go, but make sure you stay a few days, and see for yourself that there is so much more to see than just the dolphins!



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Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Kalbarri

Good friends of ours "The Rougets" from Yarck near Alexandra (hello to you all!) visited Kalbarri on the last September school holidays, they flew to Perth, hired a 4WD and drove up to Kallbarri. I remember at the time feeling so envious of their big journey, it all sounded so wonderful, so exciting and so far away! So we were all really looking forward to seeing this place that the Rougets had told us so much about. And we weren't disappointed….

As we do every new town we visit, we headed to the Information Centre. These centres are the wealth of information about what to do and see in the town, and we always are so thankful to the people who guide us to the best places to see. Usually they are like a Pandoras box of information, ready to spill every detail they can. Not so here in Kalbarri. My usual first line is "What can you recommend?" She looked at me like I had two heads or was speaking another language. Her comeback line was "Recommend what?" To which my obvious answer was     " Can you recommend places to see in Kalbarri". Slowly I was able to draw blood out of a stone but her blood must have been thick because it wasn't running very well!! Note to self for future interactions with Information Centre staff -  even if I am standing there in clear view with Mark and the 2 kids I need to say  " What can you recommend for a family of two adults and two children to do  for the "x" amount of days we are staying in "town x"!!!

We stayed at the Big 4 in town and it had the best pool. Emshia learnt to snorkel in this pool and we had trouble whenever we weren't sightseeing, getting the kids out of the pool!

Sightseeing highlights –

·         Rainbow Valley – This place is regarded as Australias most beautiful parrot habitat and "one of the wonders of Western Australia". We would have to agree. When you first walk in you   s ee some parrots in cages and think 'gee we have just been ripped off', but then you  wander through a giant open aviary with parrots flying all around, then into landscaped tropical gardens with waterfalls, fountains, stained glass windows, lily ponds and a lookout tower and amongst all this is some of the most amazing parrots from Australia and all around the world and it truly was magical. Well worth a visit for sure, it is like an oasis in the middle of arid desertland.

·         Kalbarri National Park – "Natures Window" would have to be Kalbarris most famous landmark. It is a natural rock arch that frames the view of the upstream Murchison River that winds through the big gorges below. It was one of those places that you only ever see in pictures in a book and you feel very privileged to actually see it with your own eyes and bring the picture alive. We did a short leg of the walk that progresses past natures window along the top of the gorge but it was closed up ahead and the temperature was  quickly beginning to climb so we turned back and headed to the " Z- bend".  This  is a lookout which looks over a gorge that plunges 150 m to the river below, where the river redgums provide a lush contrast to the redness of the rocks. This was spectacular, but once again, the temperature was getting very warm and even though it was just before midday, the temp would have been hitting mid thirties and the kids  were almost melting in front of our eyes!

·         Seahorse Sanctuary -  This place was great. Obviously  the passion of the owners, this "breeding stable" showed in tanks all aspects of seahorse culture from newborn to adult and you get to push a button to get a running commentary on what you are seeing . Fascinating to learn that the males actually deliver  the babies, and not just 1 or 2 but up to 1000! They began breeding the seahorses because people were taking them out of the ocean to be pets and they were only living for a few days because they didn't know how to eat food that wasn't live and swimming in front of them. So they breed them and basically train them to eat the pet food, and then they will be able to live as pets for up to 5/6 years.  Another interesting fact is that seahorses are actually fish but just don't have the tail fin, so they are the slowest swimming fish in the ocean.



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Geraldton

Funny where the paths of life lead you... it was back on January the 1st at Mt Gambier when we met a lovely family from Geraldton who were driving over to Tasmania for their holidays. They had two children who were the kids ages and they got along like a house on fire as we, the adults did too. They said when we got over to Geraldton to give them a call and we could stay at there place. And here it was 2 months later and we are in Geraldton, staying with a family we met for only one night in a SA Caravan Park!!!
 
We had a great time. Their hospitality was amazing, we got to sleep in real bed, got to have a private shower and a single toilet where no-one else could hear your happenings!!! We chatted like old friends, we got to see the sights of Geraldton and got very used to being back in the real world again. To be in a house was like being in a palace, and to eat a meal off a table and not your kneecaps was such a treat! It was sad to leave our lovely friends but we had to return to the scene of the "attack of the Camper Trailer" (at Sandy Cape) where the caretaker had found our keys that we had lost in all the commotion and thought we would never see again! So it was another 2 nights in Jurien Bay but this time in the overflow area at the football ground. From the packed out caravan park, the footy oval was a treat with only one other camp there and full use of the club's toilets and showers. Cheap too. We also returned to the Health Centre and Rory had his stitches removed and the wound had healed really well.
 
We went back to Geraldton for another 2 nights but this time we stayed in a caravan park as our friends had now returned to work/school and we didn't want to overstay our welcome. We did do tea and had pizza, beer and wine and then bid them farewell. While being in a major town, Sharyn visited the hairdresser and I had some airbags fitted to the back of the Prado to stop it from sagging with the weight we are carrying and towing. They did the job. Onwards again...
 
  




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Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Attack of the Camper Trailer...

It started out like any ordinary night. It was about 9pm and the kids and I were sitting on the floor of the camper trailer, so excited because Rory's class at St Marys had written to him, and we were replying to their email on the laptop. Rory was walking around the computer thinking of his replies when he tripped on the computer cords and went flying head first into the opened kitchen of the trailer that had a metal lip of about 1cm. The next I heard was a massive cry and I looked up and saw blood pouring down Rory's face and a giant gash about 5cm in length and about 1cm deep in his forehead above his left eye. It wasn't pretty... Emshia amazingly kept very level headed and calm and I took Rory outside while Emshia ran out to find Mark. We tried to control the bleeding and Mark grabbed the first aid kit out of the car. We put steri strips (like paper stitches that hold the wound together) on the wound and gauze pads to control the bleeding. Rory had stopped crying by this time, he was so brave, and Emshia had grabbed his toys and was distracting him like a professional. A fellow camper ran to the caretaker of the campsite to get a phone number for medical help, and when he returned Mark spent 18 minutes trying to find a number for local Jurien Bay medical help. The answering machine at Jurien gave him the number of Western Australia 'Health Direct', and the lady on the other end (probably in Perth) had no idea of any nearby centres and told Mark to get on his computer to the 'Whereis.com" website!!! Poor Mark was at his wits end and I found in the list of numbers from the caretaker, the local police number so I called them and was greeted by a lovely officer who told us to get in the car and meet him at the police station in Jurien Bay and he would organise the rest. In the car we went, and about 10 minutes later here was the local copper and his co-worker waiting by their police car for us. We pulled into the driveway of the station, and he told us to follow him to the medical centre where he had the nurse waiting to assess Rory's wound. In Marks excitement he backed out, not realising there was a median strip in the middle of the road...up and over we went...in full view of the local law enforcement...was funny in retrospect...
 
Into the Health Centre we went, and were greeted by the lovely nurse on duty. She had a look and immediately called the local doctor. He was a Nigerian fellow, with a lovely deep voice and had a beautiful way of dealing with Rory. I dont think Rory actually understood a word he said but he was lovely all the same. And brave Rory lay there and had a big dose of local anaesthetic injected into his forehead and wound and 6 stitches later he was as good as new, apart from a dressing and a big bandage around his head!
 
When we got back, we tucked Rory into bed and after a dose of Panadol he slept like a log and had no complaints since! Such a brave little guy!
PS. Joey his puppet kangaroo also had a fall and needed a bandage around his head, check out our photos!


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The Amazing Pinnacles...

So excited to be heading North, our first stop was a cheaper campsite called "Sandy Cape" close to the little seaside town of Jurien Bay. It cost us only $13 a night here, we were right on the beach and were camped under a lovely big shady tree.
Waited till near sunset to drive to the nearby Nambung National Park where we were absolutely gobsmacked at the beauty and grandeur of the famous Pinnacles Desert. You have probably seen photos of the Pinnacles, these yellow rock formations jutting out like teeth from the earth, and we expected an area the size of a football oval with these rocks and a big fence around where you could look and not touch. Well we couldn't have been more wrong. They were the most awesome display of nature we have ever seen. It looked like a virtual graveyard of rocky tombstones, all different shapes and sizes, and they were as far as the eye could see. You could drive you car in and around them, the track must have been a couple of km in length, and you could stop and get out and touch them and photograph them and sit on them, whatever you liked. We were like a couple of pigs in mud with the camera, capturing every angle and as the sun set, it was a photographers paradise. The scientific explanation of the Pinnacles is that "they were formed thousands of years ago when ancient plant roots formed a weak cementation of calcite within the dunes and have been exposed by wind and shifting sands". If you ever get the opportunity the Pinnacles are a must see. We predict that in the years to come they will be fenced and you wont be able to get near or touch them, so we are so thankful we were able to experience them, and they have have been our trip highlight to date.


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Purf...

Heard so much about Purf... (sorry let me get my tongue in the right position...) Perth. About its beauty, its cleanliness, its wide streets, its beautiful beaches, and how it is the capital city of choice to live in Australia. We must be getting more cynical as we go on our trip because while we dont deny any of these above claims, it just didn't blow us away the way we expected it to. We put it down to our love of history (having grown up in the gold town of Ballarat), we look for the historical old buildings in the towns and cities we visit, and the city of Perth itself just didnt have many. It was stately, new, clean, probably almost sparkly but just didnt have the character we found in Adelaide and Melbourne. The adjoining suburbs of Subiaco and Fremantle were much more to our liking but we hadn't planned on spending too much time in these places with our main focus being Perth itself. But all that said we still had a fun time.
After ringing 3 caravan parks with no luck as all full, we got into one in Swan Valley, famous for being the winery place of Perth. We got a lovely big site with awesome views of a huge overhead powerline and we had the pleasure of being right next to the flight path of the departures and arrivals at Perths Airport... ahh the serenity...
We had an enjoyable stroll in the city centre, visited Sci-tech - a 'hands-on' science based centre with over 160 hands on discovery items (the kids and Mark and I all had a ball here), and had an enjoyable drive around Kings Park and loved the views over the city and were amazed at the natural bushland right in the middle of the city. We visited all the famous beaches, Scarsborough, Cottesloe, Hillary's harbour, they were lovely and also very busy ( the temp had been in the high 30's for the past week). We had the pleasure of visiting one of Marks old work mates Raymes from Alex Secondary College and were spoilt to be in a real house, and sat at a real table and watched a real television!! In fact, and in Raymes style, we watched some of the Oscar's on a huge projector screen. Thanks Rames it was a pleasure!


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Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Margaret River

As we rolled into Margaret River we knew we'd be here for a few days at least so we quickly left town and headed out to the famous surfing beach, Prevelly. It certainly didn't disappoint and there was a fair share of windsurfers and what I can only describe as Parachute Surfing; those things absolutley fly! Of course it was blowing a gale so that helps hey?
 
We checked out a caravan park back in town and not only was it packed but the spaces were so small we couldn't fit our camper trailer on the site they tagged for us; it was ridiculous. We headed 5 minutes out to a Big 4 called Tauton Holiday Park and it was magic. It's built around a farm so there's animals about (donkeys, camels, sheep, cattle, chooks and ducks) and one site would be equal to 4 to 6 sites back in town. Tourists tend to drive past it on their way into town so it was maybe a quarter full. What a difference from 5 minutes away and the best caravan park we have been to on this trip. We used this as our base and we visited the beautiful Busselton Jetty. At just under 2km long it's the 2nd longest wooden jetty in the world. At the end is the Underwater Observatory 8 meters down that was spectacular,with coral and heaps of different fish; a must see if you're over this way.
 
The following day we headed to Bunbury to the Dolphin Discovery Centre. After getting there at 8 in the morning, we waited 4 fours and no dolphins turned up! It turns out that was the third day in a row that they were a no show and this is generally a good time of year for them. Bugger. Had a walk in town and were amused by the talking toilet. It locks you in, talks to you, plays nice music so you can concentrate on the business at hand and then unlocks the door after 10 minutes if you haven't alreay done so. The moment you place your hands under the automatic tap, the toilet flushes by itself, the soap ejects automatically, the dryer does and even the dunny paper rolls out for you. I think it even thanks you (could be making that one up). Heaven in Bunbury...
 
After this it was shopping in Margaret River and then a drive around some local attractions. We didn't have time to visit the 90 wineries in the area (that is just amazing, it's not a big area) but our first stop was the Yahava Koffee Works. The aroma in this place was amazing and the Nicaraguan? coffee we had was delicious. Then we visited the Margaret River Chocolate Company and after sampling a lot of the free stuff ("divine" in Sharyn's words) we bought some 'takeaway'. Last and CERTAINLY least, the Bootleg Brewery. The place looked good, there were heaps of people drinking, the beer and sticker cost $9 so it must be good but the reality was a very ordinary beer, no better than a $3 pot of Carlton Draught. Looking around at all these people drinking heaps of this expensive beer I realised it was another case of the Experor's New Clothes. To be seen in the 'right' place means a lot to some people obviously. I thought of a few words for these poor souls but as I'm aware of some young readers of this site I have to hold myself back!
 
On leaving Margaret River we again visited the Dolphin Centre and again we had no luck. It was 5 days with no show now and I guess we'll have to wait for Monkey Mia before getting close to some. Next stop, Perth.


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I've been everywhere man...

Remember the song...
"I've been everywhere man, I've been everywhere man ,  well I've got a new verse to the song! Especially dedicated to the South West Of Western Australia...and every town that ends in an "UP"!!! (you'll understand it in a minute...)
 
So here we go...
 
"I've been everywhere man, I've been everywhere man 
Cross the deserts bare, man I've breathed the mountain air, man ,Of travel, I've had my share, man I've been everywhere."
 
I've been to Condingup, Dalyup, Jerramungup, Minarup, Lake Chindup, Munglinup, Warriup, Nanraup, Narrikup, Ongerup, Pingrup, Amelup, Tambellup, Kojonup, Nornalup, Manjimup, Mayanup, Dinninup, Yallingup, Unicup, Noggerup, Mumballup, Cowaramup, Boyanup, Dardanup, Wokalup, Myalup, Dwellingup, Coolup, Yunderup, Yalgorup, Binninglup, Kirup, Kudardup, Gingalup, Beedelup, Owingup, Porongurup, Kendenup, Badgebup...and I'm sure I've missed some..."I've been everywhere!"
 
(Well I haven't personally, but how amazing is that "up"!!!)
 
 
 


Find it at www.seek.com.au Your Future Starts Here. Dream it? Then be it!