After Sharyn's folks left us at Broome, we stayed for another day and prepared for the next leg of our journey. Originally we had intended on doing the Gibb River Road but up till now it had been closed, so we decided to drive the first part and veer off to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek. We stopped for lunch at Derby after we had checked out the Boab Prison Tree; wow that was huge! The history surrounding it wasn't so grand as it was used as prison for aboriginals who had been taken from their land, chained up and literally dragged down south to be used on the pearl luggers around Broome. Hard to believe that this sort of stuff happened in Australia, the 'Lucky Country'.
Around here was the start of the Boab Trees. Then it was on to the Gibb River Road, with the start of it being bitumen and then we turned off for Windjana Gorge. The campsite was just dead grass and dirt but it had tap water, flushing toilets (how unbelievable in the middle of nowhere!),outside cold showers and stunning views. What luxury in the bush! He walked into the gorge early the next morning and spotted lots of fresh water crocs and a colony of fruit bats. The gorge itself was stunning and the surrounding cliffs were once an ancient limestone reef. Strange to imagine we were standing under an old sea and somewhere up on the cliffs they have found some marine fossils in a cave.
Next stop was Tunnel Creek and this was literally 'cool'. Before we got there, we came across a creek still flowing over the road. Not sure just how deep it was, Sharyn got out of her own accord to check the depth. Honest she did! I did mention it might be a good idea in case we got stuck half way across on a rock or a big hole...Anyway, not far into it a Landcruiser comes around the bend, Sharyn jumps out of the way and he just charges through. Bravado stuff hey, but somewhere he'll get caught. Saved Sharyn from walking all the way across anyway.
Tunnel Creek flows under cliffs that were part of that old limestone reef that extends throughout the Kimberley. We took the torches and saw fish and freshwater shrimp, some quite big like yabbies back home but without the big claws. Half way along the roof had collapsed in and after this section the bats could be found. Another great spot and 'must see' if you're up here.
Onwards we went to Fitzroy Crossing, a spot we had been warned to miss by fellow travellers..."just get petrol and GO". We stayed outside of town at Fitzroy Lodge, which was a real upmarket place in such a rough area. We had no trouble in town though, but then we didn't go in of a night. We did have a small shop at the local supermarket though and that was a cultural experience in itself, for us and the kids! Really well stocked little supermarket. Our highlight here in Fitzroy Crossing was a guided tour on the Fitzroy River. Our aboriginal guide was brilliant. His family were custodians of the land and he told us the local names for the trees and animals as well as the gorge itself; 'Darngu'. Apparently some explorer named it after a mate of his back in England, Sir Archibald Geikie, who had never even seen the place. I think it should be changed to Darngu just as Uluru and Kata Tjuta have been changed to their native names. Sorry Archi mate but you don't deserve to have this place named after you.
The gorge was a photo at every bend, picture postcard stuff, and the water that flows through here is amazing. In the wet season the water level rises up to 17 meters above where we were and if Sydney Harbour was empty, the Fitzroy River would fill it in 5 hours at full flow! Another trip highlight, another 'must see'.
Onwards to Halls Creek for lunch and a stop at the visitors centre. Some young female German tourists, not blonde and topless for once (bugger), were asking about what they could see around the area in their 2wd vehicle. To cut a long story short (rare for me), they basically couldn't see anything unless they were willing to fork out big money on a tour. Wouldn't you be annoyed to have travelled so far and find out in the middle of this great area that you should have bought/hired a 4wd instead. Didn't say that in the travel brochures.
We made our way into Purnululu National Park, more commonly known as the Bungles Bungles. We had been told at the info centre that the 50+km in would take 2.5 to 3 hours towing our camper trailer and caravans were not allowed as they would be wrecked on the steep ascents and descents into the many creeks and gutters found along this very windy and rough road. Our time was a little shorter than that and we found ourselves a beautiful spot with all-day shade and a nearyby drop toilet with tap. Luxury again, how little things excite us now. Early the next morning we headed for Catherdral Gorge but the first walk was the 'Domes Walk'. This went into some of the famous bee-hive domes and they were a sight to behold. Cathedral Gorge itself was one of those 'look in awe' places and we had it to ourselves for 20 minutes. Our voices echoed in an angelic way, well the kids did and mine was sort of angelic, so we had fun singing and making silly noises before we were joined by other tourists. That night while sleeping with all the windows down, Sharyn awoke with a fright, a wet spray and bad smell on her head. She thought she had been peed upon by a bat but when she went outside to look, there was our resident Owl perched high in the tree who had done a poo with the flyscreen catching the solid component and the liquid stuff falling through into the camper. No Sharyn was not too happy but a quick wash and she was back into bed.
Next morning we went to the Northern end of the park and into Echidna Chasm. The rocks up this end of the park looked more like Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) but even more impressive I thought. Scattered everywhere amongst them were palm trees adding a strange tropical feel to this dry and harsh area. We managed to get to the end of the walk by midday when the sun shone done into the rocks and lit up the whole end of the walk. Some of the cliffs were 200 meters high and something to see. Onwards to Mini Palms and after a long and tiring walk we made it. Was breathtaking, and against Sharyn's judgement I chose to ignore the 'No Entry' sign and walked down to the left of the last lookout to the cave at the end of the gorge....Only because we had read a book not that old that describes walking into the cave and to me they had put the sign up to stop people falling on the rocks with all the legal stuff that follows. Having done some rock climbing and abseiling in my time I thought I would be OK and I was. Don't do this at home though kids, Emshia and Rory know this!
The trip out of Purnululu the next day was quicker than coming in, we made it out in just over 2 hours, although 4km from the end poor Emshia's tea and breakfast made a return visit, and after a quick clean up we were on our way to Kununurra.
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